Facebook @briochepig March is here and it’s “Adopt a Guinea Pig” month! These furry, vocal, and docile little guys can make a great pet!  In this blog we’ll review some interesting history of guinea pigs and some basic information on the many advantages of adopting from a guinea pig rescue besides just giving a needy guinea pig a forever loving home.  In future blogs, we will discuss topics like; guinea pigs’ many vocalizations and what they mean, guinea pig behavior (including signs your guinea pig might be sick), some anatomy facts included things like, “How well do they hear, see, smell?” and so on, the different breeds, proper cage size, time out of cage (floor time), why I choose to use carefresh bedding exclusively over the last 7 years, and proper everyday care including diet. Read this review from Pet Keen  GUINEA PIG OR CAVY HISTORY  Early history can trace evidence of guinea pigs all the way back to 9000 BCE! And the first signs of domestication still go as far back as 2000 BCE! (The accepted date period of domestication is not agreed upon by all- but is generally accepted that it was in that general time period) But you still have to go way back to the early 1500’s when it was believed that Spanish conquistadors brought them to Europe from their native South America to primarily be used as pets at that time. They were introduced to North America in the early 1800’s. They were also popular pets among the wealthy and members of Royalty. In fact, Queen Elizabeth I is reported to be one of the earliest fans of guinea pigs way back in the late 1500’s! They aren’t from the country of Guinea and they aren’t pigs, so where does their name come from? First, in a lot of the world guinea pigs are referred to as cavies (cavy) which is taken from their proper Latin name “Cavia porcellus”.  One very common theory on the word “guinea” comes from the fact that they may have been sold for a “guinea”, an English gold coin. But the coin wasn’t created until the 1600’s and documentation of the word “guinea” being used to describe them goes back to the 1500’s. So why “guinea”? Well, that’s a good question. There are many theories, none of which are confirmed. So then, let’s look at the word “pig” used for them. This is also a mystery but the general consensus is it has to do with the grunting noises they make that can resemble some noises an actual pig makes. What a rich and mysterious history these little critters have!   INTERESTING GUINEA PIG HISTORY FACTS  The first accepted evidence of a guinea pig shown in art dates all the way back to 1580 in a portrait of three Elizabethan children with the middle one holding her pet guinea pig!    Many well-known people have had guinea pigs as children or adults. I’ll highlight a couple of them.  In this 1972 photo, the future Princess Diana is seen with her guinea pig, “Peanut”.     Deborah Harry, the lead singer from Blondie, a favorite band of mine growing up, is seen here with her Peruvian guinea pig.     And in New Zealand, a police department named Elliot an official Constable. Elliot was a guinea pig! He was used to bring attention to driving safety including proper speed in school zones. He was outfitted with his own uniform! Elliot had become a bit of a celebrity in New Zealand.      SHOULD YOU HAVE MORE THAN ONE? DOES SWEDEN REALLY HAVE A LAW MAKING OWNING JUST ONE GUINEA PIG AGAINST THE LAW?    The answer is yes and yes. Guinea pigs are very social animals and are absolutely most mentally healthy with at least one other guinea pig. In 2008 Sweden enacted law stating animals classified as “social creatures” , of which guinea pigs are classified as “social creatures” in their law, must be given “adequate social contact with animals of the same species”! So yes, it is against the law to have just one guinea pig (among other species classified in the law)! So unless there are some very unusual circumstances, someone considering getting “a” guinea pig should count on at least a pair.     WHY ADOPT? In addition to the obvious reason “they need a home” there are lots of other advantages. Most rescues specific to guinea pigs will only adopt in pairs unless you need a companion for your current solitary guinea pig.  Rescues do a health exam and usually will have incoming pigs spayed or neutered (usually soon after arrival or when one is healthy enough to undergo a surgical procedure, or at a proper age) and that helps control one of the main reasons guinea pigs end up in rescues- unwanted babies.  Rescues will also be happy to discuss any aspect of guinea pig care and behavior. A pet store associate, unless an experienced guinea pig owner, will only know the bare minimum basics learned during training.  Bonding is crucial. Guinea pigs have a hierarchy and when adopting from a rescue, the two (or more) guinea pigs will have already been bonded and ready for their new home. If you are getting just one as a companion for your solitary one (perhaps recently lost a mate), the rescue will usually have you bring in your guinea pig to be introduced to a prospective companion and start the bonding process to see if the two appear that they should be a good match.  A common misconception is that two boys can’t live together. However, as long as there isn’t a female in with them (in which case neutering would be recommended even if female has been spayed), most boys will successfully bond. In fact, over the last 7 years, I’ve only had boys in pairs.  While my future blogs will dive into important topics, including the most basic things to know for now, if you are considering adopting guinea pigs, but if you can’t wait, it’s very important to remember:  Be prepared for a 5-8 year commitment which includes proper medical care expenses. If you are adopting as pets for a child (children), their time with the guinea pigs should be supervised and perhaps most importantly, you need to be ready to give appropriate care if the child gets “tired” of the guinea pig.      There are many good websites for guinea pig care information, but I recommend using a guinea pig specific rescue’s website. In fact, most rescues are happy to receive messages or phone calls to help with questions related to care. So when you adopt from a rescue, you aren’t just giving homeless cuties a home, but you are getting pets that were prescreened, and treated if necessary, for health problems. You get to know the history of the guinea pig including how well it adapted to the new environment of the rescue and how easily bonding occurred. You’ll know any behavior “quirks” and possible recommendations on any special care prior to choosing. And perhaps most importantly, a place to go for information or questions after the adoption.  Of course other places, like your local Humane Society, are also good places to adopt, but keep in mind that often you won’t know anything about the guinea pig except a reason given to the shelter for surrender.        Guest Post by Craig N. - long time Guinea Pig parent, currently of Bentley and Cosmo (pictured above), and they invite you to follow their antics @ https://www.facebook.com/briochepig  Until next time…. Learn more about Guinea Pigs here   

Now that most covid restrictions are over and many of us are returning back to the office or school, local humane and rescues have seen a big influx of small animals, including rabbits. By adopting a rabbit or two from a rescue, not only are you saving them, but the staff and volunteers there can be a huge help and a continual resource, especially if you are a new rabbit parent.  Rabbits can make great indoor pets and can free roam in your home with the right precautions. They are one of the most popular exotic pets and make adorable companions. But with unique care needs and behaviors, they’re definitely not the same as cats or dogs! They are definitely NOT a low maintenance pet and young children should have adult supervision at all times.  The volunteers and fosters will take the time to acclimate rabbits to living indoors and sometimes even litter box train them. Some rabbits that are surrendered have only spent time outdoors in hutches or other enclosure. Plus, rabbit rescues usually have a partnership with local vets who will spay or neuter them and also give them a complete health check.  Rescue staff and volunteers are very knowledgeable and can help you understand the behavior and needs of your rabbit will be essential to creating a rewarding, long-term relationship. Before leaving you on your own with your new companion, they will make sure you know how to properly care for your bunny. What you need to know before adopting rabbits 1. Rabbits are a great pet for small quarters like an apartment They don't take up a lot of space and don't need to go outside, plus they make very little noise, unlike a barking dog or cat that meows all the time. However, they do shed and they need brushing to prevent matting, and their nails trimmed every four to six weeks. The Holland Lop Rabbit has a 14-year lifespan, weighs only four pounds, with irresistible floppy ears, making this dwarf bunny the ultimate pet for city dwellers. 2. Rabbits live a long time = long-term commitment With proper care and diet and indoor living, rabbits can live 8-12 years or more, longer than most small animal pets. Before you adopt, make sure you are prepared to take care of them for many years as a companion.   3. Rabbits are social creatures Their habitat or living area should be in a quiet place but not too far from rest of the family. Rabbits are easily bored and need plenty of playtime and exercise with enrichment activities. If you can adopt a bonded pair of rabbits that is optimal so they have a companion at all times.  4. Rabbits need a large space and/or free roam with daily exercise  Even though they’re sold as complete rabbit “starter kits,” most pet store cages are not ideal. They are way too small to properly house a rabbit. You can easily make a large habitat from inexpensive materials. Two designs that cost about the same as an “extra large” pet store cage can be made from either a dog exercise pen or wire storage cubes. Either design provides three times the bunny space.If you are going to do free roam, it's very important to "bunny proof" your entire home or wherever they have access to. Bunnies LOVE to chew, and that means any exposed cords, cables and wires. Also remove any hazards like poisonous plants or anything else they shouldn't chew on like important books or papers. Be sure to put out plenty of litter boxes for them in corners if they are free roaming, especially when first starting to litter box train. Put a layer of carefresh bedding or carefresh rabbit litter followed by a fresh layer of hay. Read more on how to litter box train your rabbit.  5. Rabbits Need a High-Fiber Diet to Stay Healthy Rabbits should have unlimited access to a high-quality grass hay like Timothy or Orchard, at all times. Hay is essential for digestion and also help with their teeth. Fresh dark green leafy vegetables are also good, but only feed fruits and carrots in very small amounts.  A great resource is the House Rabbit Society’s article about diet, which discusses the appropriate amounts as well as types of food to give your rabbit from youth to old age. 6. Rabbits need regular Veterinary Care If your rabbit wasn't examined by the rescue or shelter, make sure to take them to a Vet right away. They should also have annual preventative care to ensure a long and healthy life. Read more about rabbit health from our Vet, Dr Ruth MacPete   Adopt Don't Shop! If you’ve done all your research and feel sure that you and your family can properly care for a bunny, please adopt a rabbit from a rescue or shelter instead of purchasing one from a breeder or pet store.     

Did you know that carefresh bedding is 100% biodegradable and compostable? carefresh is a made from scratch small pet paper bedding, which allows it to be returned from where it came—the earth! Not only are we committed to making sustainable products, but we also strive to produce minimal waste and help you do the same! Did you know that roughly 80% of the items buried in landfills in the United States could be recycled or composted? Landfills are one of the largest contributors to soil pollution. In the past when cleaning out a small pet’s home, it has been common to simply toss the old bedding into the trash. However, composting has recently become a great way to reduce household waste. Small pet parents who compost their old bedding can sleep better at night knowing that they are creating a smaller carbon footprint for your furry friend. How does it work? Organic waste will break down naturally if given enough access to oxygen, allowing microorganisms to feed on the organic materials, breaking it down into usable compost! This is called aerobic decomposition, organic materials converted to compost can be used as a soil amendment, improving the quality of your soil by adding essential plant nutrients. In landfills, waste lacks access to oxygen causing decomposition to take much longer and producing lots of greenhouse gasses like methane and takes up so much space! How do I start a home compost? If you are interested in starting a home composting system, do your research to find the right composting system for your home – there are tons of methods out there that will require different amounts of space and even work on your end. The basic principles of creating healthy compost are the same, it’s critical to practice good composting standards for optimal aerobic decomposition. This means stirring, turning, watering, checking the temperature, and covering your compost every few days. Make sure there isn’t too much of one type of organic material in your compost pile, you want an overall balanced content. Variety is the spice of life, and that holds true to your compost pile as well! It does take some effort but it’s well worth it in the end and after a few months, your compost will be ready to be used in your happy and healthy garden. If you have any questions or concerns regarding composting at home, we recommend checking your local ag regulations, reading more through the tips at EPA.gov, or checking your state regulations. Can I compost poo?  It depends. Many of the compost blends you can buy on the market will contain manure from animals like cows and horses. These animals are herbivores, meaning their waste will only contain plant matter and this creates amazing compost! So the rules of thumb for composting your pet’s waste is: herbivores only! Rabbit, guinea pig, or chinchilla feces are a great addition to your compost piles. Parents of omnivore or carnivore pets can still compost their excess carefresh bedding, but we recommend removing the solid waste from the used litter and properly disposing with the use of a biodegradable bag. The feces of any omnivorous or carnivorous animals may contain harmful bacteria and should NOT come in contact with anything edible. After removing any solid waste, you can safely compost the rest of the litter. Composting How-to: Place the droppings and used bedding on your compost heap, add some straw and mix it all together. Allow this to sit with other compostable items, turning the compost as needed to allow for proper aerobic decomposition. Each composting system has different requirements for turning and tending, so make sure to tailor these steps to your specific system. Depending on the size of your pile and your method of composting, it can take anywhere from two to six months for your compost to be ready to use and mixed into your garden. Important Tips for Success: Do not compost the waste of any animals who are ill, contagious, or taking medication, as these unwanted elements may wind up in your soil. Do not compost the feces of carnivores or omnivores Keep your compost pile balanced Don’t want to Start your Own Composting System? What if I don’t want to start a home compost, but don’t want to throw my excess bedding into the garbage? If you are not interested in creating your own home compost bin or don’t have the available space, you may be able to use a yard waste bin or simply bring your compostable materials to local farms or a nearby community garden. Be sure to ask first if they will accept compostable materials with pet waste and what the requirements are. Most waste management companies have a commercial composting facility, especially if you live in a larger town or city. If you are struggling to locate one, we simply recommend googling “composting facilities near me”, give them a call and ask: If they provide a waste-management bin and the times they pick up compost If they do not pick up, when and how your compostable materials can be dropped off Any regulations of what should/should not be included in your compost materials The cost associated with working the yard-waste management Any additional benefits they provide (such as finished compost at a reduced price).  So what are you waiting for? Start composting your used carefresh bedding today!    

Guinea Pigs are super sweet and social and can be fun, wonderful pets to add to your family. They generally enjoy people and other guinea pigs but are also independent and easy going, while also being curious and inquisitive. They are very social so they should have a companion guinea pig at all times. Here are a few tips to think about before deciding to bring a guinea pig home: What to consider:  Guinea Pigs can live between 4 and 8 years, some even older. This is a longer life expectancy than other small pets such as gerbils or hamsters that only live 1-2 years, so be sure you are committed to care for them that long.  They need a companion so be prepared to adopt at least two.  It is best to adopt the same gender only, however some males will fight.    Do you have enough space to provide a large habitat for them? Please adopt responsibly. There are usually plenty of guinea pigs available at your local humane society or an animal rescue.  Make sure they are spayed so they cannot reproduce and have them checked by a Vet for any healthy issues if possible.  Guinea Pig Diet: Fresh water must be provided at all times. Use a water bottle or a water dish that does not tip over easily. Two sources is best.  Guinea pigs are herbivores meaning they only eat plant material. Fresh greens and vegetables are an essential part of a guinea pigs diet, especially as a source of Vitamin C, which they cannot make on their own.  Fruit can be given but in moderation, no more than once or twice a week Hay MUST be available at all times. Grass hay, preferably Timothy Hay, provides the fiber guinea pigs need for digestion and helps grind their constantly growing teeth. They should be eating a pile of hay that is about twice the size of their body each day.  A pellet based food especially formulated for guinea pigs should be given every day. Make sure it does not have "fillers" like nuts, seeds, etc. Vitamin C is very important for their overall health. Guinea pigs are unable to make or store their own vitamin C so the best way to make sure they receive their daily vitamins is with a delicious offering of vitamin-rich vegetables. Red and green peppers, rosehips, parsley, kale and other dark leafy greens are all excellent sources of vitamin C. Read more  Treats can be given in moderation, just make sure they do not have added sugar or fattening ingredients like nuts and seeds. NO chocolate, it poisonous for guinea pigs.  Their Habitat Needs: Make sure their home is large enough to move around and get enough exercise, with appropriate hidey spots and enrichment like chewy toys.  We like the Midwest habitats (pictured below) that are both expandable and easy to clean. Total size depends on number of guinea pigs kept together but should be at least 10.5 sq ft for two.  Place the habitat in an area that is free of drafts and stays between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep in mind that guinea pigs can be most active at night so be sure to place in an area where they won't disturb your sleep. Use a super absorbent bedding like carefresh for the bottom as guinea pigs like to poop and pee a lot! Spot cleaning every day is best, with a total refresh once a week.  Guinea pigs should also have access to additional space or play yard a few times a day for exercise.  A pet playpen works great for this.      Other Supplies:  Your guinea pig will need some fun things to do to keep them entertained safely.   There are lots of safe toys at pet supply stores. Always ensure they are meant for guinea pigs and don’t contain any toxic ingredients or hazardous materials that could be dangerous for the pig to chew on or ingest.   Guinea Pig’s teeth grow constantly. They need to chew a lot to keep their teeth in proper condition. If their teeth grow too long or crooked, it can impact their health and their ability to properly ingest food.   Safe guinea pig chewable toys include wood, apple sticks and some fibers. Be sure to only give your guinea pig items that are safe. Sticking with items from pet supply stores is the best way to ensure your pig’s safety.   Here is a basic list of supplies that you will need to get and setup before bringing your new pet guinea pig home.  Large Habitat & play yard – safe and secure and big enough for them to move around and get exercise Water Bottle or bowl – most guinea pigs will drink out of a water bottle with spout. Two sources.  Hay feeder – Some guinea pigs enjoy pulling the hay out of the hay feeder and it can help to keep the hay sanitary. Some guinea pigs will pull all the hay out and it will just end up on the floor of the enclosure. Heavy Food Bowl – Check that it is shallow enough for your guinea pig to dip their face into  Hay & pellet food, greens, vegetables, source of Vitamin C Enrichment/Chew Toys – apple sticks, woven fiber, wooden chew toys are all great options Igloo or Hidey Hut – Make sure it is big enough for your pig to turn around in. If you are adopting a young pig, they may grow, and you may end up needing a bigger hidey hut. Grooming – Small guinea pig nail trimmers, brush *Note – if you are adopting a long-haired guinea pig, consult your veterinarian regarding grooming needs as some long-haired varieties need regular bathing, brushing and grooming to stay healthy.   Bedding:   carefresh natural paper bedding is a great option and is safe, absorbent and easy to clean with little dust for them to breathe in. Plus there are lots of fun colors to choose from for a fun habitat theme.  Since guinea pigs are herbivores, their bedding along with their poop is compostable! Learn how >>> Composting Tips Do not use wood shavings of any kind as these can emit odors and dust that can be harmful for your guinea pig’s respiratory system.     Socializing Some guinea pigs enjoy being cuddled or snuggled. Others prefer to be left alone. Since they are prey animals, they naturally try to avoid being picked up. Getting down on the floor with them with regular quiet contact and slow approaches with patting and gentle picking up over time will get them used to their owner and help them realize that they are safe. Still, some piggies will prefer to be left alone and that is ok. Learn more They may all sorts of fun and silly noises. Sometimes to communicate that they are hungry or excited to get a treat. Sometimes they chutter or make a clicking noise when they are unhappy or stressed.    

Many of us love our small animals and would do anything for them to make sure they are happy. It is important we care for them to the best of our ability. This includes putting the extra effort into learning about their needs and providing them with those things. Hamsters can make great pets but do require a good amount of care so that they can live a happy life. There are many key factors that go into giving a hamster proper care so they can thrive. Some of these include enclosure size, the amount of bedding provided, wheel size, cleaning their enclosure, and giving them enrichment to prevent boredom. It is not only important to provide them with these things, but to make sure you are giving it to them properly!   1. Large enough enclosure It is a common stereotype that since hamsters are small, they should live in small cages. This is very untrue. Small cages do not allow enough space to fit a proper sized wheel,  hides and tunnels, allow burrowing, and other basic needs. Hamsters are highly active animals, so when not provided enough space, they commonly will show signs of stress. This can include bar biting, constantly trying to escape, and showing aggressiveness. To avoid this stress, I recommend giving a hamster at least 800sq in. of unbroken floor space, but more is always better and recommended!   2. Deep enough bedding Hamsters are “natural burrowers”, therefore in the wild they build deep tunnels and burrow underground. It is important we always give them the option to do this so they can act on their natural instincts. I recommend providing at least 8” or more of bedding at one end of the enclosure giving them a “deep end”.  As always, more is always recommended. Providing deep enough bedding will allow them to replicate what they do in the wild.   3. Cleaning their enclosure When a hamster has a properly sized enclosure, this can make the cleaning process easier. It is never recommended to fully empty and replace the bedding in the enclosure completely, but to “spot clean”. This means removing and replacing bedding from the areas where your hamster pee/poo’s in, but leaving other clean areas left alone. Hamsters tend to choose certain spots to do their business, so cleaning those areas is the most important. When emptying the whole enclosure, this removes their scent and causes stress.     4. Proper sized wheel Since hamsters are such active animals, they need a wheel to allow them to get exercise. Hamsters can run up to 5 miles a night, therefore, are running on their wheel for long periods of time. Their wheel should be comfortable for them to run on. This means it needs to have a smooth and solid surface, upright, and most importantly large enough. Syrian hamsters should have a wheel size of 11”-12” in diameter while a dwarves wheel should have a diameter of 8”+. A large enough wheel will prevent your hamsters back from curving while they are running!   5. Enrichment Since a hamster's life is mostly spent in their enclosure, they need enrichment to keep them busy and provide them with mental stimulation. You can have a large enough enclosure but should also provide activities for them to engage in or they may get bored. Since hamsters are naturally clean animals and cannot have the traditional bath with water, providing sand is an important enrichment that allows them to clean themselves. Not only this, but they enjoy digging and playing in the sand as well! Some other enrichment options can include scatter feeding their dry food to encourage foraging, providing chew toys, hideouts, and tunnels.   Overall, there are many important factors that play a role in proper hamster care. Yes, a hamster can survive without these things properly given to them, but they will not be thriving. Therefore, it is especially important to provide these needs for your hamster, so they can live their best life! Guest Post by Haley M. @honeythehamster28 (above photos are all taken by her) - be sure to follow her for more great hamster care and adorable photos!